When the bill arrives at a Pizza Express table, a specific moment occurs. A Romana pizza with a few extras, a pudding, dough balls with the fancy dip, and all of a sudden the cost of the food alone has risen to around £50. One London food writer was inspired by such an evening to create what he described as the most complex spreadsheet in the world, feeding in menus from renowned eateries all over the city. The question was straightforward, bordering on cheeky. Is a high-street chain more expensive than a Michelin star?
It turns out that the answer is yes. On paper, at least.
Near the top of that list was Brat, which is located on Redchurch Street in Shoreditch. For about £27.80, order the oysters with plum, a plate of blood pudding with chickpeas, and caramel cream. This is the meal that most people go there for, and nobody pretends otherwise. It takes some self-control to avoid the sirloin and Dover sole, which are like temptations on the menu. Nevertheless, the average amount spent on three courses there was about £50, which gives you an idea of how the restaurant views its patrons. People who would never reserve a white-tablecloth room in the first place may be drawn to Brat’s noisy, casual cooking over an open flame.
Sabor has divided itself into distinct areas throughout the town, each with a distinct atmosphere. Arriving early on a Friday night feels more like strategy than a choice because the Counter is the one worth pursuing, even though it primarily accepts walk-ins. Manchego or Payoyo goat cheese croquetas, followed by a pineapple sorbet and a gem salad with bottarga and pine nuts. About £27.80 once more. Spanish counter dining seems to have always been more affordable than a quiet dining room because of its stools, conversation, and cooks working close by.
In Notting Hill, Dorian is an unusual case. Although it bills itself as a bistro for locals, the locals reside in eight-figure homes. A cautious diner stays close to £31.50 with a beef tartare main course and gillardeau oysters at £5.50. It’s still unclear if the restaurant’s popularity stems from its food, its Instagram appeal, or its prices. Most likely a mixture of all three, in amounts that no one will acknowledge.
When one looks closely, it becomes clear that the real deals are frequently hidden in the set lunch. Located in a townhome just a short stroll from Farringdon Station, Luca serves handmade pasta and dishes like John Dory with golden turnips for an express lunch of £32 for two courses and £38 for three. It feels like a much more expensive afternoon because of the terrace and the mid-century interiors. La Trompette in Chiswick serves a set lunch every Wednesday through Friday for £45. It is served to regulars on clean white tablecloths, and they seem to treat it more like a weekly ritual than a special occasion.
For lunch and the early evening, Kitchen W8 on Abingdon Road in Kensington charges £49.50 for three courses. Pigeon raviolo, roast partridge leg, and gentle lighting. It’s the kind of place where a couple might stay for coffee longer than they had intended and completely lose track of time. Even Benares, perched majestically in Berkeley Square, serves a set lunch of Welsh lamb and chickpea masala that briefly puts Mayfair within reach.
It’s difficult to ignore how much the concept of a Michelin star has changed. The Red Guide recommended silent waiters, chandeliers, and prices that necessitated a private conversation with your bank for many years. These days, some of London’s most talked-about starred kitchens resemble neighborhood haunts. Value is already rewarded on the Bib Gourmand list, of course, but these starred establishments are taking a slightly different approach, maintaining their recognition without charging the inquisitive.
There are restrictions. Seasons affect menus, and the most affordable options seldom correspond to what people genuinely want to eat. The math becomes easier when you add a glass of wine and a tip. Additionally, a number of guides caution that prices can change in a matter of weeks, making any published figure somewhat tentative.
However, the general idea is still valid. Restaurants appear to be moving toward set menus and counter seats due to rising rents, squeezed margins, and a younger, more cost-conscious clientele. It’s unclear if that will continue as expenses continue to rise. However, for the time being, a Michelin-starred lunch in London can be less expensive than a mediocre night out, which is a pleasant little surprise.
FAQs
1. What is the cheapest Michelin-starred meal in London?
Brat and Sabor both offer three courses for around £27.80.
2. Where can you find a good Michelin-starred set lunch?
Luca, La Trompette, Kitchen W8 and Benares all run good-value set lunches.
3. How much is Luca’s express lunch?
It’s £32 for two courses or £38 for three.
4. Does Sabor’s Counter take reservations?
It works mainly on walk-ins, so arriving early helps.
5. Are these Michelin restaurant prices fixed?
No, menus change often, so check current prices before booking.
